Marcenay, in the Châtillonnais area of Burgundy, is one of 23 villages famed for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. At one time the lake here was used by local monks as their source of piscatorial sustenance: however today it attracts a somewhat more diverse collection of people, who come to sunbathe on its sandy banks, row, or paddle across the large expanse of water, or watch the wildlife. And, fortunately, there’s also a lovely campsite nestled right next to it.
Les Grèbes du Lac de Marcenay is everything that a campsite should and could be. It’s got all the ingredients for an old-school camping experience: a remote location far away from any road noise, a substantial lake, an incredibly friendly and helpful welcome in the guise of Dirk Jansen, the owner, and a laissez-faire attitude to where you pitch your tent. That it’s off the beaten track won’t appeal to people who like to be within walking distance of a choice of bars and restaurants, but we kind of feel that this isolation is all part of its appeal.
When Dirk took on the site it was a tired municipal affair in desperate need of some attention. One of the first things he did was remove the barrier at the entrance and throw away the rules telling campers what they could and couldn’t do. ‘People don’t want to see that when they’re on holiday’, he explains in his dulcet Dutch tones. Since then, he’s been quietly turning it into a relaxed lakeside idyll. And after all the years that he’s worked running and owning campsites, you can tell that he still has a passion for it and one hundred and one plans for things he wants to develop – when time and funds allow.
The site itself seems to attract a mixture of people: young couples touring around France who just want to stay for a few days, and older couples who come back year after year for week long vacations. There’s a regular crowd of musicians too, who seem to appear for impromptu concerts around the campfire or in the main music hall – a hoot when you fancy joining in but also wonderfully shielded by the campsite shrubbery if you want to stay tucked in the peace of your pitch. Away from the traffic, the layout is also safe for kids who want to run wild and have fun without causing undue parental anxiety.
The main camping area is a lush, wooded plot with reasonably spacious pitches. Each is set in a clearing, partially surrounded by shrubs or trees, so there is a real sense of privacy. Open fields and vineyards on one side contrast with the lake on the other, which is about 3 miles (5 km) all the way round and on the edge of a forest. Despite Dirk’s various plans, this ancient natural feature remains the site’s greatest asset. There is something very special about living near the water and, though you can’t actually camp on the lakeside itself, you’re a mere hop, skip, and a jump away across the footbridge to its edge.
All in all, Les Grèbes du Lac Marcenay seems to somehow capture the true spirit of camping in France. The relaxed, welcoming atmosphere and beautiful setting mark it out from the crowd, while the easy access to the lakeside is positively perfect. Take a blanket and a bottle of wine and sit on the sand, watching the sun set. With the campsite just meters away, there’s never a need to rush.